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James Turk: Get ready for the breakout of gold and silver prices

Section: Daily Dispatches

Gold shines as designers create new and trendy works

By Chen Jie
China Daily, Beijing
Thursday, February 23, 2006

http://www.chinadaily.com.cn/english/doc/2006-
02/23/content_523095.htm

Real gold jewellery glowed in this season's fashion weeks in New
York, Milan and Paris as the runways sizzled with gold fabrics and
accessories heralding the metal's return to the forefront of fashion.

Established fashion designers such as Marc Jacob, Nicole Miller,
Carolina Herrera and Vera Wang are among those who have made gold
their metal of choice for the season.

Off the catwalk too, the fad of gold jewellery has been widely
adopted by women from all walks of life.

Gold jewellery, especially of the 18k variety, will be hot in 2006,
according to Vicenza Oro 1, the international jewellery trade fair
held in late January 2006, which offered a glimpse into what will
make it onto jewellers' shelves this year.

More than 1,600 exhibitors showcased their designs and the return of
gold was tipped as one of this season's biggest trends.

"The fashion in jewellery this year is the momentous shift away from
gemstones towards heavy-metal jewels, and towards jewels that
luxuriate in the glory of gold, since gold is the noblest metal of
them all," said Cynthia Unninayar, editor-in-chief of The
International Jewellery Quorum magazine from the United States.

At the trade fair, Gold Expression, the jewellery show sponsored by
the World Gold Council and the Vicenza Fair, showcased more than 400
fashionable and marketable pieces from 65 Italian jewellery
manufacturers.

The pieces, which are innovative and versatile and demonstrate the
beauty and style of Italian design, were previewed in New York last
December and, after the Vicenza launch in January, will tour the
world starting in China and India in April.

"After a highly successful debut in 2004, Gold Expression has
established an international reputation for both creativity and
marketability, becoming a focal point that enables both media and
buyers to identify new trends," James Burton, chief executive
officer of the World Gold Council, told China Daily.

For 2006, the 65 Italian companies participating in Gold Expression
have identified six general trends.

Basic function tops the list since the traditional uses of gold in
marriage, religion, and family gifting remain unchanged.

During this year's Chinese Lunar New Year Festival, jewellery stores
in major cities across the country reported dramatic increase in
sales, especially of gold products, despite the continuous rise in
gold prices.

The unwritten message that accompanies a gift is almost as important
as the gift itself. When choosing a gift, people like to buy
something that could express what they want to say to the one they
love.

A good many designers present "roses" and "hearts" collections for
gift-givers.

The "Roses" collection from Robert Coin, president and chief
designer of the Vicenza-based jewellery manufacturer Roberto Coin
S.P.A., includes white, yellow and rose gold pendants, rings and
earrings.

The "Hearts" collection, from the company OMA 27 AR, designed by
Gisa Dall'Avo, features bracelets and earrings in different sizes
linked by "hearts" and made of polished yellow gold.

... Inspiration from nature

Ronco's "Rose" collection has delicate petals crafted from satin-
finished yellow gold with light effects, while Luca Radin has given
us "Spinning Hearts" pendants featuring two stylized hearts of
polished yellow gold spinning around a sun of white gold.

Designs drawn from nature remain a key design trend. For example the
concept of the flower inspires designers to create popular floral-
patterned jewellery.

In Rosato's "Flowers" collection, there is a necklace made of
intense yellow gold mixed with multi-coloured enamel. Butterflies
are the inspiration for designer Eddie Manzardo whose "Eleganza"
collection features the lovely creatures in white, yellow and rose
gold fluttering about on bracelets, rings and earrings.

Company Giante's "Nature" collection presents necklaces and earrings
with bunches of leaves in yellow and pink gold and Marilisa
Zen's "Magic Dream" collection features tiny gold stars in yellow,
rose and white gold rings, earrings and bracelets. Tiziana Vial
offers the "Glittering Grapes" collection and the "Sunbeam"
collection.

The third trend finds many designers going back to basics, giving
classic jewellery a modern twist. The new mood for clean simplicity
represents the way we aspire to live today, from a healthy
lifestyle, to craftsmanship and jewellery.

Styles are linear, simple and functional. Chains have evolved into
organic shapes with flowing lines, contrasting textures and colours.
Links have become graphic or flat. Basic outlines are re-interpreted
as sculptural forms.

Like in fashion, mix 'n' match is another main trend. Designers mix
both materials and colours.

Licia Mattioli designs a yellow gold necklace mixed with mother-of-
pearl, mahogany and terracotta. Designer Roberto Burroni's "Urban"
collection presents necklaces and bracelets made of yellow and white
gold mixed with pearls, bamboo and leather.

Art and architecture have turned out to be the fifth major
inspiration in gold jewellery design. And most of these designs
boast of a strong individuality.

Orogami's "Labyrinth" collection presents the gold ring, earrings
and bracelets in the shape of the maze that represents a spiritual
journey. Angelo Mori and Massimo Brini have come up with a
Renaissance-inspired collection that features the steeple of a
famous church in the Tuscan hills.

Stefani Stefano shows a collection reminiscent of Art Nouveau
arabesques while Jarretierr's "Sound of Soul" collection has the
musical notes and staff on earrings, bracelets and necklaces.

Finally, the pretty, collectible additions to bracelets and
necklaces represent the sixth trend. Charms are called jewelled toys
and especially loved by young people.

The most impressive charms at Gold Expressions 2006 were those made
by Rosato, the company with Hollywood actress Demi Moore as brand
ambassador. Following last year's tiny handbag charms, Rosato
showcases charms of gold shoes for bracelets and necklaces as well
as charms of bags and shoes made of gold and embellished with
Swarovski crystals for watches.

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